THE VEHICLE If you haven't got your own vehicle yet see our article on buying your first vehicle to find a car that suits you. Once you've bought a car you will need to get used to how it drives. We would recommend going out on quiet roads, out of peak times, to become accustomed to the new vehicle before driving in busy traffic - don't forget to adjust the mirrors and seat before you set off and ensure you have enough fuel to get you to and from your destination.

You should maintain and service your vehicle correctly, the service schedules are based on the age and mileage of the vehicle, see your car's manufacturers guide for details or contact your local garage. Make sure the tyre treads are legal and the tyre pressures are correct - this includes having a legal spare tyre. Ensure all the lights are working before heading off and if the weather conditions are poor make sure your windows are clear before moving. If you are ever in doubt of the safety of your vehicle seek advice from your local garage.

You are legally required to have a valid MOT, road tax and insurance on your vehicle which needs to be renewed every year.

For advice on driving in poor weather conditions see our blog: Vehicle winter checks and tips

READ THE ROAD AHEAD
Make sure you are extra vigilant when driving. Drivers of all different ages and driving experience are on the roads with you. Take some of the following precautions when driving:

- Maintain a safe distance behind the vehicle in front as this will give you more time to react to anything that happens ahead. For example, if the driver in front slams their brakes on then you have a time advantage and are less likely to hit into the back of them. Being able to brake in time instead of swerving the vehicle will prevent the possibility of you losing control of the vehicle. If someone is tailgating you stay calm and pull over when it is safe if you feel necessary to do so.

- Recognise and anticipate potential hazards before they develop. E.g. if you are coming up to a set of traffic lights and they turn red you should begin to slow down within plenty of time. You shouldn't need to brake heavily when the car in front slows down or once you are really close to the lights. By doing this you are driving economically and will cut down your fuel expenses, see our blog for further information on driving economically. Another example would be when the traffic lights turn green check that the intersection is clear before you go, another driver could have skipped a red light and could be driving in your direction.

- Mirrors, ensure that you check your mirrors when you change speed and direction.

IN-CAR DISTRACTIONS
Avoid having any distractions in your vehicle. You shouldn't drink or eat whilst driving or use your mobile phone, to prevent your phone from being a distraction you could consider turning it on silent. As a new driver even loud music can be distracting so whilst you are becoming familiar to the vehicle you could consider turning the radio down or off until you are completely comfortable with driving.

Driving with a group of friends can be off-putting even for the most experienced of drivers. You should experience driving on your own and/or with a responsible adult before giving lifts to friends.

ARE YOU IN THE RIGHT CONDITION TO DRIVE?
Before setting off on any journey, however short, you should always be in a good driving condition. So if you have had an argument with someone or are upset it is advisable that you don't drive as your judgement may be misguided. If you feel tired or feel yourself becoming drowsy whilst driving you should pull over at the next service station or next safe place to have a high-caffeine drink and a rest.

Although by law you are legally able to drive with a small amount of alcohol consumption we'd recommend not driving at all if you've been drinking. Even the smallest amount of alcohol can affect your reaction time and judgement.

For more advice on drink and tired driving see our blog: Driving in the festive season

 BAD DRIVING HABITS
Try to avoid picking up bad habits, you should comply with all traffic rules i.e. wearing a seatbelt, sticking to the speed limits, stopping at red lights and giving way at junctions etc.

Make sure all your passengers are also buckled up before you pull away.

ACCIDENTS
Vehicle shunts, crashes and breakdowns are inevitable, no matter how responsible you are. In case of an emergency you should keep the following items in your car:

- A phone with a substantial amount of battery
- Emergency phone numbers: Parents/Next of Kin & break down recovery
- Insurance details
- First aid kit
- Bottled water and long-life food
- Torch and extra batteries
- Blanket/jumper
- Money

If you are going on a long or over-night journey you should always tell someone where you are travelling to.
REMEMBER the more driving experience you have, the more you will increase in confidence and improve.

To begin with, congratulations for passing your driving test! You are now able to join the millions of people already on the roads. But remember, whether you passed first time or took a few attempts as a new driver you still have a lot to learn. You are most probably feeling excited, anxious or even scared about driving independently but don't worry this is normal - check out the below tips to help keep you safe.

Since cars are now equipped with so much complex technology and on-board diagnostics, the importance of maintaining and servicing them has never been more crucial. However, service schedules and manuals are becoming increasingly confusing and difficult to comprehend.

Often we wait for the service indicator warning to illuminate on the dash before making a booking. Assuming, that is, that the last time the vehicle was serviced the indicator was re-set!?

New cars and their warranty
Whilst a vehicle is still under the manufacturer's warranty, usually 3 years, it must be serviced as per the manufacturer's specification.  This is often mis-construed as meaning that it has to be serviced by the Main Dealer.  However, this is not the case.  Under The EC Block Exemption Regulation 1400/2002 (October 2003), go to www.dti.gov.uk/consumers/fact-sheets/page38070.html for further information, motorists have more flexibility where they choose to get their servicing carried out as long as the service is carried out as per the manufacturer's service schedule.

Understanding Service Intervals
Vehicles of the same model and year of manufacture can often have different service intervals so there are two important factors to consider when planning your car service - time intervals and mileage.  An example is 12,000 miles or 12 months and this means that the car must be serviced every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first.  Therefore, if 12,000 miles is clocked up in less than 12 months then it must be serviced at that point.  Conversely, even if the vehicle has extremely low mileage it must still be serviced every 12 months in order to validate the warranty.

For cars who no longer have the warranty to fulfil, choosing a service that meets the vehicle's requirements and also represents good value for money is made harder since you cannot drive past a garage without seeing a service advertised for £99.  But what does it include?  What parts are replaced?  What parts should be replaced and how often?  One thing is for sure, most reputable garages could not afford to carry out a comprehensive service for £99.  The two important factors to consider here are age of the vehicle and service history. A minor service will usually consist of replacement of the engine oil and filter.  The rest of the service will be made up of visual checks of the lights, levels and braking system etc.

Therefore, it is vital that a more comprehensive service is carried out at the appropriate mileage intervals to ensure that the air filter, fuel filter, pollen filter and spark plugs (if petrol) are also renewed since if these items are not renewed regularly the vehicle will not run as efficiently and it will cost you money in the long run.  It is equally important that the fluids, particularly brake fluid and antifreeze, are also renewed regularly irrespective of mileage since the fluid becomes less efficient the older it becomes.  The wheels should also be taken off to inspect, clean and adjust the brakes and a thorough examination of the vehicle is advisable to flag up any repairs that may be required in the near future.  For example, if a leaking water pump is left unnoticed, it could result in further extensive damage resulting in an expensive repair that could have been avoided if it had been rectified sooner.

In sum, before you book your vehicle in for service ask your garage what service components should be renewed given the age and mileage of the vehicle.  You can then make an informed decision as to whether a £99 service is appropriate? Many garages have Special Offers in conjunction with more comprehensive service packages, such as a FREE Mot, which sometimes represent better value for money, so be sure to ask.

Don't do it yourself!

Gone are the days where cars were 70-80% mechanical - when DIY mechanical repairs were reasonably straight forward, if you're mechanically minded that is.

Modern day vehicles now have several on-board computers and electrical components that can make fault diagnosis a little tricky, especially without a qualified technician and/or bespoke equipment.

Reasons why car maintenance is impractical
Modern vehicles are just as mechanical as before but now have just as many electrical components also. Newer vehicles have several ECUs (engine control units), a small handful of these are for example:

- ABS
- Engine management
- Auto gearbox
- Manual gearbox
- Central control
- Air bag
- ESP
 and so on. In some cases the failure or absence of one control unit can cause the failure of other systems.

If you have a warning fault light illuminate on your dash it is imperative that you have it diagnosed as soon as possible at your local specialist, using your vehicle's manufacturer's diagnostic equipment to enable an accurate, quick and cost effective solution.

To save money many DIY mechanics will spend money on the basic code readers, which are easily accessible from well known sites like EBay, to diagnose a fault on their vehicle themselves. However, these readers are often basic and a multi-make system thus not giving a clear diagnosis. Many readers have a literal translation from a European language (e.g. French) to English because many of the vehicle's components are manufactured in Europe. This can in turn make interpreting the results very hard to understand, even for the professionals.

An example of a common misconception using the basic code readers is that many coil packs on the Peugeot and Citroen ‘TU' engines [1.1, 1.4 & 1.6] were replaced unnecessarily as the actual fault lied with the fuel injectors.

COMMON DIY MISTAKES
Something as ‘simple' as replacing a bulb is often carried out incorrectly. If headlamp bulbs are fitted incorrectly (upside down) there are many repercussions.  Firstly it's an MOT failure, secondly the headlamp aim will be incorrect thus blinding other road users and thirdly it may burn out the light unit. Another common fault with renewing bulbs is when replacing the two pin bulbs in the rear (i.e. brake lights and sidelights) the pins can easily be bent causing interaction with other lights. For example, when applying the brakes the indicators can illuminate as well as the brake lights.

Another common mistake DIY mechanics can make is replacing a fuse that's of a higher amp rating than the original fuse fitted, which can cause the wiring to burn out resulting in a more costly repair - if you are ever unsure of what fuses are needed for your vehicle consult your local garage.

Many new vehicles are now built with a Key-Free System and Power Starter Button, so getting into your car is more convenient and simple, but how safe is it?

KEYLESS ENTRY
The keyless entry system allows you to lock and unlock your vehicle, without even taking your key out of your bag or pocket. This works by sensors on the car detecting a signal emitted by the vehicle’s key, when it’s a certain distance from the car, and activates the locking mechanism accordingly.

POWER STARTER BUTTON
With a Power Starter Button you no longer need to insert the key into the ignition to start the car. Once inside the car with your key, to start the engine all you need to do is simply push the Starter Button while holding down the clutch or brake pedal if it’s an automatic.

NEW: ‘KICK’ OPEN BOOT
A kick-activated tailgate has recently been unveiled. Similarly to the keyless entry, with this you are able to open and close the boot by simply waving your foot underneath the rear bumper. This feature is to aid those who are carrying something that they need to put in the boot without the necessity to put the item down.

HOW SAFE IS KEYLESS ENTRY & START?
Keyless car entry systems were designed to make it easier getting into your car, but could it also make it easier for criminals to gain access to your car as well?

The keyless entry system works on a signal output from the key to your car.  By being in a close proximity to your vehicle the locking mechanism will act accordingly. The danger of this is that people, particularly women, are at risk of being attacked by a thief when accessing their vehicle. Organised criminals will watch car parks in particular to find out which cars have keyless entry.  Once in the vehicle they’ll be able to use the keyless Power Start Button, as they’ll still be within close proximity of the key, and it won’t become an issue of not having the key until they turn the engine off.

Alternatively, criminals will find a way of intercepting the key signals and increasing the signal so that the distance from the car to access is greater. They can then access keyless vehicles without the owner being in a close proximity, preventing the need to attack them. The only way to protect from this is to have some sort of shield on the key to prevent it emitting a signal once the vehicle is locked, however, to have this you’ll have to know where the key is, therefore eliminating the use for a keyless entry system.

In summary, these vulnerabilities should give the manufacturers a pause for thought, before they add another ‘convenience’ feature to vehicles.

Using a hand held device whilst driving or riding a vehicle is incredibly dangerous and also illegal. If you’re caught using a mobile phone when driving you could be prosecuted.

THE DETAILS
Whilst driving, you must not use your hand-held mobile phone, smartphone or PDA to:
- Make or receive calls
- Send or receive text messages (including picture messaging)
 Or
 - Access the internet

This includes when you have stopped at a set of traffic lights or if you are queuing in traffic.

THE PENALTIES
If you're caught using a hand-held device whilst driving you’ll incur an automatic fixed penalty notice, which is: 3 penalty points on your driving licence and a fine of £60.

However, if your case goes to court you may be faced with disqualification from driving and a maximum fine of £1000.  The fine maximum increases to £2500 if you are driving a bus or goods vehicle.

NOTE:  If you’ve passed your test within the past 2 years and have 6 or more penalty points you’ll lose your licence and will be required to retake your driving test in order to have your licence back.

WHY IS IT DANGEROUS?
- Using a hand-held mobile or device will distract you
- You won’t have full control of the vehicle with one hand on the steering wheel
- Your reaction times can be up to 50% slower than that of someone who is driving normally if you use a hand-held device.
- You are 4 times more likely to crash if you are using a mobile phone whilst driving
-  Think! Even the best of drivers can be distracted easily by a text or call, the moment lapse of concentration could easily result in a crash.

WHEN IS IT ACCEPTABLE TO USE A DEVICE IN YOUR VEHICLE?
- In state of a genuine emergency you’re able to call 999 but only if it’s unsafe to stop.
- If you are a passenger, unless you are supervising a learner driver.
- If you are parked safely – not on the hard shoulder of the motorway (unless it’s a genuine emergency)
- If your device (mobile/sat-nav/radio) is hands-free! However, if the police feel that you are not in control of the vehicle you can still face the same penalties.

ADVICE
If someone calls you whilst you’re driving and you don’t have hands-free you should ignore the call and should only listen to the answer message or take the call once you’re safely parked. Even if your device is hands-free you should still inform the other person you’re driving and arrange a different time to take the call.

Using a hand held device whilst driving or riding a vehicle is incredibly dangerous and also illegal. If you're caught using a mobile phone when driving you could be prosecuted.

Finding the right tyres for your car and ensuring they are to a satisfactory and legal standard is essential for keeping you safe on the road, and by doing this it will also improve your driving experience.

In the UK you are required by law to replace your tyres when the tread depth reaches 1.6mm or less and they must not have any cuts, bulges or cord/ply showing.

If you are uncertain of what condition your tyres are in, check with your local garage and they’ll advise you accordingly.

FINDING THE RIGHT TYRE
Before looking for new tyres you need to find out what type and size of tyre your vehicle requires, you can find the recommended tyre size and road speed in your vehicle’s manufacturer’s specifications.  If you don’t have this information, then refer to the size on the tyre sidewall or consult your local garage.

It’s important to note that although a tyre’s brand name may not be well known that does not necessarily mean the tyre build quality is poor and although two different sized tyres may be of the same brand that does not guarantee they are of the same quality. In the EU tyres are not required to have a wear rating as they are in America. It may be beneficial to buy tyres that are marketed for America as well as the EU, thus have a wear rating e.g. Nexen Tyres.

Please note: if you have bought a second hand car there is no guarantee that the tyres on the vehicle are to the manufacturer’s recommendation therefore, if you are ever in doubt consult your local garage.

See below for an explanation of what the writing on your vehicle‘s tyres means:

205/65 R 95 V

205: This is the width of the tyre tread in millimetres

65:  Is the height of the sidewall as a percentage of the tyre tread, in this instance 65% of 205mm

R: R stands for radial; this is the construction of the tyre

16: The diameter of the tyre’s inner rim in inches

95: Is the load rating of the tyre, this is the weight the tyre is designed to support.

V: This letter refers to the maximum speed the tyre is designed to withstand when the vehicle if fully loaded (see below for the most common speed rating lettering)

S – 112 mph

T – 118 mph

H - 130 mph

V – 149 mph

Z – 150+ mph

W – 168 mph

Y – 186 mph

WHAT TYRES DO YOU REQUIRE?
If you drive a few thousand miles a year, mostly in a rural area, and never drive over 100mph then standard tyres in mid-price range should suffice. However, if you normally travel on motorways or at speed, finding the right tyre with an extended tread life will allow you to avoid changing your tyres as often, saving you money and time in the long run. Consult your local garage for advice.

Another factor to take into consideration, when finding the right type of tyre for your vehicle, is the typical weather for your location. In the UK, rain and wet weather is common, so it is best to find tyres that are well suited to provide good grip in this type of weather and still perform well.

ADVICE: It is good practice to rotate the tyres in the best condition to the front of your vehicle, this is because the majority of vehicles are front wheel drive, therefore the front wheels tend to wear faster as they are do a larger amount of work compared to the rear i.e. steer and do most of the braking.

NEW EU TYRE LABELLING REGULATION (EC 1222/2009) As of 1st November 2012, all tyres manufactured after 1st July 2012 are required to have a rating for 1 - Fuel efficiency, 2 -Wet grip and 3 – External rolling noise.

Fuel Efficiency – this is graded using a scale of A – G. ‘A’ being the most efficient and ‘G’ being the least efficient. [‘D’ is not used in this grading].

Wet Grip, also known as braking performance on a wet road – is graded using a scale of A – G. ‘A’ being shortest braking distance and ‘G’ being longest. [‘D’ & ‘G’ are not used in this grading].

External Rolling Noise – this is measured in decibels (dB) and categorised in 3 classes which are illustrated by 3 waves. 1 wave being a quieter tyre and 3 being louder. 

Spare Tyres Is a spare tyre part of the MOT test? The simple answer is no, however under the Road Traffic Act it is illegal to carry a defective spare tyre.

Space saver tyres are legal to carry as a spare and to use on the vehicle in the short-term, ie until it is convenient to get a replacement tyre fitted, but if the vehicle is presented for an MOT with a space saver tyre fitted then it would fail as a result.

If the spare tyre is suspended in a cage under the vehicle these can be subject to theft and there are some excellent locking devices which can be fitted to eliminate this problem.

Whilst fuel prices are going up, follow these tips to keep your fuel bill down...

CAR MAINTENANCE
Keep your car safe, reliable and working to its full potential by:
1. Ensuring your tyre pressures are correct, this will also give you better handling of your vehicle - see your car manufacturer's guide for the correct pressure
2. Having your car serviced regularly to maintain the engine's efficiency and to highlight any other problems that may be affecting your car's performance, for example brakes.
3. Choosing the correct oil specification for your vehicle - find this in the manufacture's guide

PLAN AHEAD
Save money on your fuel bill by planning your route before you leave:
1. This will prevent you from getting lost and travelling further than necessary or sitting at idle looking for your next course of action
2.  Choose a route with roads that are less travelled, this will prevent you from having regular changes of speed
3. Avoid travelling at peak-times whenever possible, consecutively avoiding traffic jams and queuing
4. Leave with plenty of time to arrive at your destination so you're not driving faster and braking harder than you usually would
5. Choose roads with a smoother road surface as this will reduce the resistance
6. If travelling a regular route note transition points for example junctions, changes of speed, crossings, lights etc. therefore reacting in sufficient time creating a smoother drive
7. Combine short trips - the engine is less efficient when cold as a result combining short trips will reduce the amount of fuel wastage
8.  Remove any unnecessary weight from the vehicle - luggage, roof rack, etc.

DRIVING
1. Drive smoothly
- Accelerate and decelerate gradually - avoiding any unnecessary braking
- Read the road ahead and anticipate any hold up - moderating your speed accordingly
- Keep the car moving; don't lose any kinetic energy built up rolling down a hill by having to stop at the bottom.
2. Change up through the gears as quickly as possible without the engine labouring - try to keep the revs no higher than 2500 rpm for a petrol and 2000rpm for a diesel before changing gear
3. Close the windows and sunroof to reduce air resistance
4. Turn off any appliances - air conditioning, heater, demister, etc.
5. Drive slower - the faster you're going the more fuel you'll consume, stick to the speed limits. By driving 70mph rather than 50mph you use more than 15% more fuel!

Whilst the air conditioning in your car is regularly used during the summer, many of us rarely use it throughout the winter months. However, not using your air con regularly throughout the duration of the year can be detrimental. This is because the gas travels in the system alongside oil; this oil lubricates the air conditioning components, prolonging the life of the components.

Therefore, you’re advised to use your A/C for at least 30 minutes each week during the year to maintain its efficiency.

By not using the A/C regularly bacteria can build up in the system causing a bad odour to emanate from your ventilation. By not using the air con in winter, these bacteria can build up and when you come to use it on a hot day you’ll regrettably have the misfortune of this awful smell and the inability to use your A/C until it is sanitised.

RECOMMENDATION – have your car’s air conditioning serviced every 2-3 years to maintain its effectiveness.

TIP - use the air conditioning together with your heater system in the winter, this will dehumidify the air and clear your windscreen fast and efficiently.

Problems with your Air Conditioning or Climate Control System? Find out about our A/C Service here.

Winters are getting harsher!

With the temperatures plummeting and the weather worsening it is more important than ever that you have your antifreeze tested and/or renewed.

Note: Don't confuse antifreeze (which goes in your car radiator) with screenwash (which goes in your screenwash bottle)!

WHAT IS ANTIFREEZE? 
Antifreeze is made of the chemical glycol - often known as coolant in its diluted state, which is usually half glycol and the remaining water. Traditionally antifreeze is made with ethylene glycol, however recently a 'safer' version of glycol called propylene is now commonly used.

ETHYLENE GLYCOL - This substance is extremely poisonous; the consumption of as little as two tablespoons of the liquid can be fatal for vulnerable people i.e. young children & pregnant women.

PROPYLENE GLYCOL - Often known as the safer substitute to ethylene glycol, although it is still toxic it is significantly less harmful than the traditional counterpart.

WHAT DOES ANTIFREEZE DO?
Antifreeze has a lower freezing point than water, preventing the water in your vehicle from freezing under extreme conditions. However, equally important are its anti-corrosive properties which prevent corrosion to vital engine components i.e. the radiator. Without having anti-corrosive protection, the engine components will rust and over time cause catastrophic damage with a repair price-tag that reflects this.

ANTIFREEZE RENEWAL & MAINTENANCE 
You should regularly monitor the coolant level and quality, in order to gain an accurate reading the level should be checked when the vehicle is absolutely cold i.e. in the morning before you make any journeys. If your coolant level is slightly low it is safe to top up with water to the correct level without having a drastic effect on the antifreeze properties. However, if the level is considerably low it is advised to add the appropriate amount of antifreeze also. If you have an extensive drop in the coolant level you should refill with water to prevent the engine overheating and take the vehicle to your local garage as soon as you can for further investigation and to diagnose why the vehicle is using or losing coolant.

It is strongly advised that you have your antifreeze renewed every 2 to 3 years. An antifreeze renewal will consist of draining the existing fluid, refilling with a mixture of glycol and water and then vacuum bleeding to remove any air in the system - it is essential to have the system bled correctly to prevent air pockets moving into the water jacket causing the engine to overheat. The mixture of glycol and water should be about 50/50, however if the antifreeze level is substantially higher than the water content it can have an adverse effect on the anti corrosive properties. If you are ever required to remove the radiator cap you should never remove the cap whilst the engine is hot, always wait till the engine is cold.

You are also recommended to have an antifreeze flush carried out on your vehicle every second antifreeze renewal, approximately every 4 to 6 years.  This usually consists of draining the existing fluid, refilling the system with a flushing agent (alkaline chemical), draining the system and then carrying out an antifreeze renewal. It is advised you have the antifreeze flush as the system can become highly acidic which can cause damage to your cooling system, thus flushing the system through will neutralise the system.

DISPOSAL OF ANTIFREEZE
Great care must be taken when disposing of antifreeze due to its toxicity. Antifreeze should never be poured down household drains or into sanitary/storm sewers. If carrying out your own antifreeze renewal, most communities have procedures to dispose of hazardous waste so use these to your advantage, if in any doubt consult your local authority or take your vehicle to your local garage to have the renewal carried out.