Follow these tips and I am sure you will have the confidence to turn your visit into a pleasurable experience.

1.   It is important that your car is properly maintained and it should be serviced annually regardless of mileage.  Service schedules can be very confusing so ask your garage to advise you on the most suitable service to meet your requirements, based on mileage, age of the vehicle, usage and to ensure that you do not invalidate any warranty you may have on the car.

2.   Provide the Service Team with a written list detailing the symptoms the car is experiencing, when it happens and whether it is an intermittent or permanent fault. Include your contact details for that day.

3.   Engine Management faults can be complex and diagnostic terminology often contains jargon which is meaningless to most of us.  Request a print-out of the diagnostic test and a brief, simple explanation of the diagnosis.

4.   Request a quotation of any repairs necessary including parts, labour & VAT before the work is undertaken.

5.   If you are unsure of the condition of your tyres seek the advice of an MOT Tester since they will give you impartial advice and tell you whether the tyres are legal.

MOT 6.   You can have your vehicle MOT Tested up to one calendar month before it is due and the time left to run is added on to your new MOT certificate.  This is very useful as it allows you ample time to get any repairs carried out if needed.

7.   If a vehicle fails the MOT Test on a particular item then a Failure Sheet will be issued and this means that the work must be carried out before an MOT Pass Certificate can be issued.

8.   Some issues identified may be advisory items only. i.e. that they will pass an MOT at that time but they will need attention in the near future.

All advisory items are listed either on the pass certificate (if the vehicle has passed the test but with some advisory items to note) or on the failure sheet (if the vehicle has failed the test and there are also some advisory items).

MOT certificates, Advisory Notices and Failure Sheets are now all printed on plain white paper as they are more often used online these days.  However, this can make it easy to mislay the paperwork as the forms no longer look official!

Note: if an item has been recorded as an advisory item it does not have to be rectified in order to pass the mot.  However, it is good practice to consult your garage’s advice regarding a future repair.  Sometimes, it is sufficient to just get it checked in a few months but in other cases replacing a small part before it leads to a bigger, more expensive repair may be prudent.

*To find out more information on MOTs go to the Direct Gov's website (www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring)*

GENERAL 9.   Do not worry about having to drive your vehicle into the workshop.  Park in the car park, hand over your keys and relax.  Any reputable garage will use seat covers, floor mats and gloves to ensure that your car stays clean. To find a Trading Standards Approved garage visit their website: www.buywithconfidence.gov.uk.

10.  If you are thinking of changing your car seek the advice of a specialist independent garage beforehand and ask if there are any common faults which that particular make & model of car is prone to.

Since cars are now equipped with so much complex technology and on-board diagnostics, the importance of maintaining and servicing them has never been more crucial. However, service schedules and manuals are becoming increasingly confusing and difficult to comprehend.

Often we wait for the service indicator warning to illuminate on the dash before making a booking. Assuming, that is, that the last time the vehicle was serviced the indicator was re-set!?

New cars and their warranty
Whilst a vehicle is still under the manufacturer's warranty, usually 3 years, it must be serviced as per the manufacturer's specification.  This is often mis-construed as meaning that it has to be serviced by the Main Dealer.  However, this is not the case.  Under The EC Block Exemption Regulation 1400/2002 (October 2003), go to www.dti.gov.uk/consumers/fact-sheets/page38070.html for further information, motorists have more flexibility where they choose to get their servicing carried out as long as the service is carried out as per the manufacturer's service schedule.

Understanding Service Intervals
Vehicles of the same model and year of manufacture can often have different service intervals so there are two important factors to consider when planning your car service - time intervals and mileage.  An example is 12,000 miles or 12 months and this means that the car must be serviced every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first.  Therefore, if 12,000 miles is clocked up in less than 12 months then it must be serviced at that point.  Conversely, even if the vehicle has extremely low mileage it must still be serviced every 12 months in order to validate the warranty.

For cars who no longer have the warranty to fulfil, choosing a service that meets the vehicle's requirements and also represents good value for money is made harder since you cannot drive past a garage without seeing a service advertised for £99.  But what does it include?  What parts are replaced?  What parts should be replaced and how often?  One thing is for sure, most reputable garages could not afford to carry out a comprehensive service for £99.  The two important factors to consider here are age of the vehicle and service history. A minor service will usually consist of replacement of the engine oil and filter.  The rest of the service will be made up of visual checks of the lights, levels and braking system etc.

Therefore, it is vital that a more comprehensive service is carried out at the appropriate mileage intervals to ensure that the air filter, fuel filter, pollen filter and spark plugs (if petrol) are also renewed since if these items are not renewed regularly the vehicle will not run as efficiently and it will cost you money in the long run.  It is equally important that the fluids, particularly brake fluid and antifreeze, are also renewed regularly irrespective of mileage since the fluid becomes less efficient the older it becomes.  The wheels should also be taken off to inspect, clean and adjust the brakes and a thorough examination of the vehicle is advisable to flag up any repairs that may be required in the near future.  For example, if a leaking water pump is left unnoticed, it could result in further extensive damage resulting in an expensive repair that could have been avoided if it had been rectified sooner.

In sum, before you book your vehicle in for service ask your garage what service components should be renewed given the age and mileage of the vehicle.  You can then make an informed decision as to whether a £99 service is appropriate? Many garages have Special Offers in conjunction with more comprehensive service packages, such as a FREE Mot, which sometimes represent better value for money, so be sure to ask.

Don't do it yourself!

Gone are the days where cars were 70-80% mechanical - when DIY mechanical repairs were reasonably straight forward, if you're mechanically minded that is.

Modern day vehicles now have several on-board computers and electrical components that can make fault diagnosis a little tricky, especially without a qualified technician and/or bespoke equipment.

Reasons why car maintenance is impractical
Modern vehicles are just as mechanical as before but now have just as many electrical components also. Newer vehicles have several ECUs (engine control units), a small handful of these are for example:

- ABS
- Engine management
- Auto gearbox
- Manual gearbox
- Central control
- Air bag
- ESP
 and so on. In some cases the failure or absence of one control unit can cause the failure of other systems.

If you have a warning fault light illuminate on your dash it is imperative that you have it diagnosed as soon as possible at your local specialist, using your vehicle's manufacturer's diagnostic equipment to enable an accurate, quick and cost effective solution.

To save money many DIY mechanics will spend money on the basic code readers, which are easily accessible from well known sites like EBay, to diagnose a fault on their vehicle themselves. However, these readers are often basic and a multi-make system thus not giving a clear diagnosis. Many readers have a literal translation from a European language (e.g. French) to English because many of the vehicle's components are manufactured in Europe. This can in turn make interpreting the results very hard to understand, even for the professionals.

An example of a common misconception using the basic code readers is that many coil packs on the Peugeot and Citroen ‘TU' engines [1.1, 1.4 & 1.6] were replaced unnecessarily as the actual fault lied with the fuel injectors.

COMMON DIY MISTAKES
Something as ‘simple' as replacing a bulb is often carried out incorrectly. If headlamp bulbs are fitted incorrectly (upside down) there are many repercussions.  Firstly it's an MOT failure, secondly the headlamp aim will be incorrect thus blinding other road users and thirdly it may burn out the light unit. Another common fault with renewing bulbs is when replacing the two pin bulbs in the rear (i.e. brake lights and sidelights) the pins can easily be bent causing interaction with other lights. For example, when applying the brakes the indicators can illuminate as well as the brake lights.

Another common mistake DIY mechanics can make is replacing a fuse that's of a higher amp rating than the original fuse fitted, which can cause the wiring to burn out resulting in a more costly repair - if you are ever unsure of what fuses are needed for your vehicle consult your local garage.

Many new vehicles are now built with a Key-Free System and Power Starter Button, so getting into your car is more convenient and simple, but how safe is it?

KEYLESS ENTRY
The keyless entry system allows you to lock and unlock your vehicle, without even taking your key out of your bag or pocket. This works by sensors on the car detecting a signal emitted by the vehicle’s key, when it’s a certain distance from the car, and activates the locking mechanism accordingly.

POWER STARTER BUTTON
With a Power Starter Button you no longer need to insert the key into the ignition to start the car. Once inside the car with your key, to start the engine all you need to do is simply push the Starter Button while holding down the clutch or brake pedal if it’s an automatic.

NEW: ‘KICK’ OPEN BOOT
A kick-activated tailgate has recently been unveiled. Similarly to the keyless entry, with this you are able to open and close the boot by simply waving your foot underneath the rear bumper. This feature is to aid those who are carrying something that they need to put in the boot without the necessity to put the item down.

HOW SAFE IS KEYLESS ENTRY & START?
Keyless car entry systems were designed to make it easier getting into your car, but could it also make it easier for criminals to gain access to your car as well?

The keyless entry system works on a signal output from the key to your car.  By being in a close proximity to your vehicle the locking mechanism will act accordingly. The danger of this is that people, particularly women, are at risk of being attacked by a thief when accessing their vehicle. Organised criminals will watch car parks in particular to find out which cars have keyless entry.  Once in the vehicle they’ll be able to use the keyless Power Start Button, as they’ll still be within close proximity of the key, and it won’t become an issue of not having the key until they turn the engine off.

Alternatively, criminals will find a way of intercepting the key signals and increasing the signal so that the distance from the car to access is greater. They can then access keyless vehicles without the owner being in a close proximity, preventing the need to attack them. The only way to protect from this is to have some sort of shield on the key to prevent it emitting a signal once the vehicle is locked, however, to have this you’ll have to know where the key is, therefore eliminating the use for a keyless entry system.

In summary, these vulnerabilities should give the manufacturers a pause for thought, before they add another ‘convenience’ feature to vehicles.

Finding the right tyres for your car and ensuring they are to a satisfactory and legal standard is essential for keeping you safe on the road, and by doing this it will also improve your driving experience.

In the UK you are required by law to replace your tyres when the tread depth reaches 1.6mm or less and they must not have any cuts, bulges or cord/ply showing.

If you are uncertain of what condition your tyres are in, check with your local garage and they’ll advise you accordingly.

FINDING THE RIGHT TYRE
Before looking for new tyres you need to find out what type and size of tyre your vehicle requires, you can find the recommended tyre size and road speed in your vehicle’s manufacturer’s specifications.  If you don’t have this information, then refer to the size on the tyre sidewall or consult your local garage.

It’s important to note that although a tyre’s brand name may not be well known that does not necessarily mean the tyre build quality is poor and although two different sized tyres may be of the same brand that does not guarantee they are of the same quality. In the EU tyres are not required to have a wear rating as they are in America. It may be beneficial to buy tyres that are marketed for America as well as the EU, thus have a wear rating e.g. Nexen Tyres.

Please note: if you have bought a second hand car there is no guarantee that the tyres on the vehicle are to the manufacturer’s recommendation therefore, if you are ever in doubt consult your local garage.

See below for an explanation of what the writing on your vehicle‘s tyres means:

205/65 R 95 V

205: This is the width of the tyre tread in millimetres

65:  Is the height of the sidewall as a percentage of the tyre tread, in this instance 65% of 205mm

R: R stands for radial; this is the construction of the tyre

16: The diameter of the tyre’s inner rim in inches

95: Is the load rating of the tyre, this is the weight the tyre is designed to support.

V: This letter refers to the maximum speed the tyre is designed to withstand when the vehicle if fully loaded (see below for the most common speed rating lettering)

S – 112 mph

T – 118 mph

H - 130 mph

V – 149 mph

Z – 150+ mph

W – 168 mph

Y – 186 mph

WHAT TYRES DO YOU REQUIRE?
If you drive a few thousand miles a year, mostly in a rural area, and never drive over 100mph then standard tyres in mid-price range should suffice. However, if you normally travel on motorways or at speed, finding the right tyre with an extended tread life will allow you to avoid changing your tyres as often, saving you money and time in the long run. Consult your local garage for advice.

Another factor to take into consideration, when finding the right type of tyre for your vehicle, is the typical weather for your location. In the UK, rain and wet weather is common, so it is best to find tyres that are well suited to provide good grip in this type of weather and still perform well.

ADVICE: It is good practice to rotate the tyres in the best condition to the front of your vehicle, this is because the majority of vehicles are front wheel drive, therefore the front wheels tend to wear faster as they are do a larger amount of work compared to the rear i.e. steer and do most of the braking.

NEW EU TYRE LABELLING REGULATION (EC 1222/2009) As of 1st November 2012, all tyres manufactured after 1st July 2012 are required to have a rating for 1 - Fuel efficiency, 2 -Wet grip and 3 – External rolling noise.

Fuel Efficiency – this is graded using a scale of A – G. ‘A’ being the most efficient and ‘G’ being the least efficient. [‘D’ is not used in this grading].

Wet Grip, also known as braking performance on a wet road – is graded using a scale of A – G. ‘A’ being shortest braking distance and ‘G’ being longest. [‘D’ & ‘G’ are not used in this grading].

External Rolling Noise – this is measured in decibels (dB) and categorised in 3 classes which are illustrated by 3 waves. 1 wave being a quieter tyre and 3 being louder. 

Spare Tyres Is a spare tyre part of the MOT test? The simple answer is no, however under the Road Traffic Act it is illegal to carry a defective spare tyre.

Space saver tyres are legal to carry as a spare and to use on the vehicle in the short-term, ie until it is convenient to get a replacement tyre fitted, but if the vehicle is presented for an MOT with a space saver tyre fitted then it would fail as a result.

If the spare tyre is suspended in a cage under the vehicle these can be subject to theft and there are some excellent locking devices which can be fitted to eliminate this problem.

Whilst the air conditioning in your car is regularly used during the summer, many of us rarely use it throughout the winter months. However, not using your air con regularly throughout the duration of the year can be detrimental. This is because the gas travels in the system alongside oil; this oil lubricates the air conditioning components, prolonging the life of the components.

Therefore, you’re advised to use your A/C for at least 30 minutes each week during the year to maintain its efficiency.

By not using the A/C regularly bacteria can build up in the system causing a bad odour to emanate from your ventilation. By not using the air con in winter, these bacteria can build up and when you come to use it on a hot day you’ll regrettably have the misfortune of this awful smell and the inability to use your A/C until it is sanitised.

RECOMMENDATION – have your car’s air conditioning serviced every 2-3 years to maintain its effectiveness.

TIP - use the air conditioning together with your heater system in the winter, this will dehumidify the air and clear your windscreen fast and efficiently.

Problems with your Air Conditioning or Climate Control System? Find out about our A/C Service here.

Winters are getting harsher!

With the temperatures plummeting and the weather worsening it is more important than ever that you have your antifreeze tested and/or renewed.

Note: Don't confuse antifreeze (which goes in your car radiator) with screenwash (which goes in your screenwash bottle)!

WHAT IS ANTIFREEZE? 
Antifreeze is made of the chemical glycol - often known as coolant in its diluted state, which is usually half glycol and the remaining water. Traditionally antifreeze is made with ethylene glycol, however recently a 'safer' version of glycol called propylene is now commonly used.

ETHYLENE GLYCOL - This substance is extremely poisonous; the consumption of as little as two tablespoons of the liquid can be fatal for vulnerable people i.e. young children & pregnant women.

PROPYLENE GLYCOL - Often known as the safer substitute to ethylene glycol, although it is still toxic it is significantly less harmful than the traditional counterpart.

WHAT DOES ANTIFREEZE DO?
Antifreeze has a lower freezing point than water, preventing the water in your vehicle from freezing under extreme conditions. However, equally important are its anti-corrosive properties which prevent corrosion to vital engine components i.e. the radiator. Without having anti-corrosive protection, the engine components will rust and over time cause catastrophic damage with a repair price-tag that reflects this.

ANTIFREEZE RENEWAL & MAINTENANCE 
You should regularly monitor the coolant level and quality, in order to gain an accurate reading the level should be checked when the vehicle is absolutely cold i.e. in the morning before you make any journeys. If your coolant level is slightly low it is safe to top up with water to the correct level without having a drastic effect on the antifreeze properties. However, if the level is considerably low it is advised to add the appropriate amount of antifreeze also. If you have an extensive drop in the coolant level you should refill with water to prevent the engine overheating and take the vehicle to your local garage as soon as you can for further investigation and to diagnose why the vehicle is using or losing coolant.

It is strongly advised that you have your antifreeze renewed every 2 to 3 years. An antifreeze renewal will consist of draining the existing fluid, refilling with a mixture of glycol and water and then vacuum bleeding to remove any air in the system - it is essential to have the system bled correctly to prevent air pockets moving into the water jacket causing the engine to overheat. The mixture of glycol and water should be about 50/50, however if the antifreeze level is substantially higher than the water content it can have an adverse effect on the anti corrosive properties. If you are ever required to remove the radiator cap you should never remove the cap whilst the engine is hot, always wait till the engine is cold.

You are also recommended to have an antifreeze flush carried out on your vehicle every second antifreeze renewal, approximately every 4 to 6 years.  This usually consists of draining the existing fluid, refilling the system with a flushing agent (alkaline chemical), draining the system and then carrying out an antifreeze renewal. It is advised you have the antifreeze flush as the system can become highly acidic which can cause damage to your cooling system, thus flushing the system through will neutralise the system.

DISPOSAL OF ANTIFREEZE
Great care must be taken when disposing of antifreeze due to its toxicity. Antifreeze should never be poured down household drains or into sanitary/storm sewers. If carrying out your own antifreeze renewal, most communities have procedures to dispose of hazardous waste so use these to your advantage, if in any doubt consult your local authority or take your vehicle to your local garage to have the renewal carried out.

It is imperative that your vehicle is in safe condition all year round, however it is especially important in the winter months as the weather conditions worsen.
Things to check:
Tyres, Fluid Levels, Lights, Battery, Heating, Windscreen Condition.

Take advantage of our free winter check service.

Winter Servicing Your Car - A Useful Checklist
TYRES
Check the condition of your tyres – ice and poor weather conditions on the roads seriously affect the grip your tyres have on the road. Ensure you have at least the minimum legal requirement tread depth of 1.6mm on your tyres but it is recommended you should have between 2 -3 mm of tread in those winter months. It’s not just the tread you have to check - see if there are any bulges, cracks or foreign objects in the tyre and check that the tyre pressures are correct as well (see your manufacturer's guide) And don’t forget to check over the spare tyre too!

FLUID LEVELS
ANTIFREEZE
The antifreeze level should be kept topped up in the winter to protect the water in your engine from freezing. When topping up your antifreeze make sure you use the correct specification for your vehicle - find this in your manufacturer’s guide. Check that your car, van or 4 x 4’s antifreeze will protect against those lowest of temperatures in winter by taking your vehicle to your local garage.

BRAKE FLUID (& BRAKES)
When visibility is reduced and road surfaces are icy you need to have reliable brakes so ensure the brake fluid level is correct and check the condition of your brakes, alternatively take your vehicle to a garage to have your brakes tested professionally.

WASHER FLUID (& WIPERS)
In those winter months you’ll tend to use your washer fluid more frequently, keep the level topped up with screen wash to avoid freezing which will also help clear your screen on those frosty mornings. Your front and rear wipers should also be in good condition, make sure they are not cracked or perished and clear the windscreen efficiently.

OIL
check the level of oil and top up if necessary to avoid any damage to the engine. To help you gauge how much to fill up your oil, on average the amount of oil between the min and max level is approximately 1 litre.

LIGHTS
As the days become shorter and nights become longer you’ll need to ensure all your lights are working correctly before you set off. This includes your hazard, fog, brake and reversing lights these are essential especially with poor visibility weather conditions – keep your lights clean too for maximum visibility.

BATTERY
Starting your vehicle in the cold weather puts a strain on your battery as well as the increased use of demisters and lights - have your battery tested to make sure it is in good condition and replace if necessary.

HEATING
Test your heated windows and demisters before the winter weather kicks in so you have enough time to get it repaired if necessary. You should also leave your air conditioning on for at least half an hour per week when driving in the winter, this will keep it working correctly and will also help to defrost the car.

WINDSCREEN CHIPS
If you have any chips in your windscreen you should have them repaired before the winter months, this is because the icy weather can cause them to turn into cracks by the freeze-thaw method.  Your windscreen provides just under a third of your vehicle’s structural strength therefore it is essential to repair a chip. They are relatively cheap to repair, or free if you’re covered by your insurance and take very little time to repair, whereas a crack is difficult to repair and will usually result in the renewal of your windscreen instead.

Advice for travelling by car in winter 
Before setting off on any journey in the winter check the weather and traffic forecast, if the weather is poor try not to travel further than necessary, if at all. If it is essential that you must drive in the ice, snow and fog follow these tips:

• Allow extra time to arrive at your destination taking into consideration the time it’ll take to de-ice your car and a slower speed you may have to travel at.
• Clear your front and rear windscreens fully before leaving.
• Keep to or drive slower than the speed limits.
• Avoid heavy acceleration or braking – keep in mind that the stopping distance will have increased in these conditions.
• Make sure you use the correct lights, especially when visibility is poor i.e. fog lights on when visibility is less than 100m.
• Avoid erratic steering and taking bends or corners too fast, you should brake early and decelerate gradually.
• Take supplies with you – a blanket, flask full of a hot beverage and some food just in case you break down or get caught in traffic. Also keep a first aid kit in your vehicle as well.
• Keep a red warning triangle sign in your vehicle in case of a breakdown. Most new vehicles now come with a red warning triangle already installed in one of the compartments of your vehicle, usually found in the boot. This is because it is now a legal requirement in most European countries to carry these in case of breakdown.
• Finally, ensure you tell someone where you’re going, take a phone if possible (that has a substantial amount of battery) and know a recovery number.